NABLUS

I’ll say a little about Nablus, my home for the next three months. It’s a beautiful wee city, population just a wee bit less than Dundee, situated between two valleys. I have a great view down into the valley and to the hill opposite from the Project Hope building. We can’t decide if we’re looking out towards the north or the south hill but whichever it is myself and Thomas, a volunteer from Fermanagh, climbed up it today. By climbing, I mean that we got a taxi to a picnic spot near the top. From there you can see pretty much the whole city sprawling across the valley. It all looks pretty impressive from up there. Apparently, you can’t get right to the top of either hill, though, as both peaks are controlled by Israeli forces.

VIEW FROM SAMA NABLUS (THE SKY OF NABLUS)

From Project Hope you can also see Al-Ein refugee camp, easily spotted by the lack of high rises and how cramped it looks. This refugee camp has been in existence since I think the late forties, when a massive number of Palestinians were displaced during the Arab-Israeli war. Apparently the conditions in this and the other three refugee camps around Nablus are pretty grim. The words “hopelessness” has been used in describing to me the mood there. I may get the chance to visit one or more of the refugee camps at some point.

VIEW FROM PROJECT HOPE (AL-EIN CAMP IS ON THE LEFT)

LOOKING WEST (OR MAYBE EAST)

The Old City is right at the centre of town. It’s a walled city, similar to Derry in Northern Ireland I suppose, although a lot more cramped. Inside, it’s basically one huge marketplace selling everything from fresh fruit and local delicacies to mobile phones. There are also Turkish baths, open five days a week for men and one day a week for women (closed on Sabt – the Sabath). I’ll have to give one a wee visit some day though, knowing me, I’ll end up going along on ladies day.

The Old City’s got a lot of character, although there are also signs of the conflict with some buildings lying in ruins. This apparently dates back to the Second Intifada, although I’m not sure if as a result of demolition or bombing. Either way, I do know that people died there.

My favourite local food so far is kufta (which probably isn’t spelt like that). It’s similar to a doner kebab, only nicer. So nice in fact, that I didn’t even mind when our poor Arabic resulted in us accidentally ordered six between two of us.

The locals are generally friendly and tolerant of Westerners with no Arabic.